Trek Start:
Arrival in Kathmandu
Kathmandu to Pokhara
Early in the morning we take the tourist bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara, which is 207 km away. Even though this stretch would take a maximum of 3 hours in Germany, we need 8 hours to reach our destination. The way there is adventurous, but we also see many small picturesque villages (as if from a history book, original and untouched), where the villagers have planted their rice next to their houses.
We arrive in Pokhara quite exhausted. Because the drive takes so long, I decide to take the way back to Kathmandu in about 2 weeks by plane.
Pokhara to Ulleri
We are driven by car to Nayapul, from where we start the trek. My boots and feet can hardly wait to get out of the car and start the trek.
The tour takes about 4 hours and what we get to see on the first day is worth every effort. The nature is so untouched, so beautiful, the splashing of the water, the chirping of the birds, butterflies flying everywhere, sweet little children in their colourful school uniforms, picturesque teahouses, bridges, other trekkers from all over the world, donkeys loaded with goods, cows, yaks, primeval forests, the first view of Machapuchre… My heart pounds with joy, I have fallen in love with these mountains and this nature.
Ulleri to Ghorepani
I wake up well rested and happy. After a delicious breakfast of veggie omelette, chapati and warm tea, the trek towards Ghorepani begins.
Today is a bit more strenuous because we have to climb at least 3,500 steps uphill. The vegetation changes here with every hour, it becomes more “jungle-like”, the trees get mossier, the rivers wilder, the rhododendron trees larger and the blossoms more paradisiacally colourful.
In the evenings we all gather in the dining room of the lodges, the only heated room with a stove. It is very cosy to sit around the stove and chat with other trekkers. The food prepared here is mostly vegetarian but very delicious.
Ghorepani – Poon Hill
We wake up at 4 am to watch the sunrise on Poon Hill at 3,200 m. The stars in the sky shine so brightly, I don’t know if I have ever seen so many stars in my life. With our headlamps we walk up the mountain for about 1.5 hours to the viewpoint. At exactly 5:30 the sun rises and I really take in my surroundings with the first rays of sunlight. We are surrounded by wonderful, high mountains (Dhaulagiri, Annapurna), mountain landscapes (mountains far and wide). The sunrise is breathtaking and the feeling of happiness cannot be put into words.
I feel like a happy little child who has received a personal gift of inestimable value. How many people on this planet have the chance and the luck to stand here where I am standing and to experience these indescribable feelings?
We all walk back to our lodges with beaming, happy faces to continue the tour after breakfast.
Tadapani – Chomrong
For two days now we have been walking through the rhododendron landscape. Whole mountain landscapes of centuries-old rhododendron trees, so many different colours. This is the untouched Nepal, this must be a piece of paradise. Arriving in Chomrong we are put up at our teahouse/lodge. The view from our lodge onto the mountains is so indescribable that none of us go to our rooms but first sit on the balcony for over an hour and admire the view of the mountain structures.
From now on Chomrong counts among the most beautiful places of my life. On this route it is the biggest little village (very small by our standards) because two routes cross here.
I chat with the locals and with our guides and porters. I learn more about these friendly, warm-hearted people, about their culture, their values, their view of life. It is wonderful that there is such an untouched place on this planet, so untouched, not influenced by our western countries. I wish that these values, this culture, these mountains will be preserved for those who come after. It is important that we are not all the same. Modernity is not always what we should all be striving for.
Our children and great-grandchildren should also be able to stand here, to have the same experiences, to find the same values. It becomes clear to me that it is the task of each of us tourists to enter this country with care and respect and also in our own interest and that of our descendants to protect and preserve the values, the culture and the nature.
The way to ABC is accompanied by many mountains. Mountains with silvery, golden, snow-covered peaks. Mighty waterfalls from the heights of the mountains, wild rivers with huge boulders and avalanches that have come down. It is a new and different experience to walk across some avalanches to reach our destination.
On the way we meet very friendly trekkers from different countries. We learn about their lives, their interests, their impressions of the mountains and the reason why they chose Nepal. Interestingly, most give as their answer: „don’t know, just had to come here“. Neither the days nor the evenings get boring. Every moment, every person is a new experience.
The day to ABC
We set off at 3:30 am for ABC. The starry sky at this altitude is even fuller, even more radiant.
Right on time for sunrise we arrive at ABC, the glacial masses are mighty, the mountains just standing there staring at us, the strength they radiate. The sun rises directly behind Machapuchre (Fishtail). It happens so quickly that I don’t even want to blink, I want to experience every second and let myself be absorbed by this panorama. If there is a god, then he probably looks like this.
I also see other ladies and gentlemen around me, paralysed, watching this spectacle, simply happy to be in this moment, one with themselves and with nature. Here everyone is aware that it is not our titles, our cars, our houses, our wealth that make us happy. Freedom in our mind and our hearts, being one with our inner self, true happiness is what we strive for. Back to our origins.
I have never felt so recovered on any beach, in any beautiful big city.
I am realist enough to know that I cannot live in these mountains. But I will make it my plan in life to go out into nature as much as possible and as often as I can into the Himalayan mountains.
The way back goes more easily and quickly. On the last day of the tour I thank for this chance and for having found the courage to take the step towards a new experience.
When we are back in Kathmandu I know much more about this mystical country, about its warm-hearted, honest people, its stories and its paradisiacal mountains. The whole chaos in Kathmandu becomes endearing to me, it fascinates and captivates me. Suddenly I no longer see the chaos but the beauty of the people and the magic of their stories within.
We say goodbye to our guides and porters with a shared lunch. Fascinated by their loyalty, their professionalism, warmth, attentiveness and proud character in true friendship.
Goodbye Nepal, Goodbye paradise of my heart. See you again. Very soon.
Gill from Germany